Backpacking Through Life
Goa Diaries…..Undiscovered Goa
GOA …Goa ….goa … what comes to your mind …the pristine beaches ,
fun frolic and mastii..But Goa is not just about Beaches Babes and Booze.. Its
not even about the mega EDM event SUNBURN held annually . Its much much more .
A land of the Gods blessed with historic significance , cultural ethos ,
peaceful life and wrapped in a coat of
greenery due the insistent rains for
most part of the year. So let me take you on a journey of Undiscovered Goa an
enchanting and mesmerising path which
unfolds like the layers of a crispy Khari …
You must have visited Panjim a thousand times . The capital of Goa
most famous for Miramar beach and Dona Paula . The shoppers and foodies paradise
of 18th June road and the Immaculate conception church the most
famous visible icon of Panjim. For the gamblers it’s the floating casinos that
hold sway . But for the truly
adventurous like me there is more to explore. Just off the Mandovi River
and opposite the great city is Divad or Divaar Island a treasure trove of old
villas , narrow winding road and lush green fields.
To reach the island Catch the ferry
across the river Mandovi and visit this
quaint Island located opposite Old Goa , get a perspective of its rich
historical, social and cultural heritage from fine baroque churches, ancient
temples to holy sites and traditional Goan occupations.
The ferry journey itself is exhilarating . The
blue and white wooden ferry fired by its diesel engine takes 20 minutes from
the wharf at Panji to Divaar. You can see quaint houses and the city life on
one coast on the other you see the marshy mangroves with unique and
vibrant birds .
The moment you land on the island the sight is to
behold . As if you are in a different country itself. The landscape looks like
something from a European country side. Lush green fields , huge trees , birds
flying in flocks and butterflies hovering over beautiful flowers . You’ll find locals sitting with their fishing
rods in hope of making a catch in the Mandovi river. If you are using a
car to discover the island you have to stop to just a few meters after the
wharf to look at the awe inspiring solitary tree in the middle of field . The
scene looks just out of the hit movie Black Panther – the opening scene – the
land of WAKANDA. Truly mesmerizing.
To tell you more about Divaar its Southern and western parts
have mangrove swamps. There are agricultural fields in the central and
eastern part, and villages in the northern and south-eastern parts of the
island, with plenty of greenery. The 4 villages are Naroa, Piedade, Goltim, and
Sao Mathias, which is now called Malar. In between, you will find many
churches, temples, and old colonial homes. There are also a few restaurants,
bars, and cafes
From a distance, Divar looks green
and peaceful. The Mandovi river splits it into two leaving a big sandy shore.
The mangrove swamps has many smaller islands and canals. This is a very good
place to unwind, enjoy nature, and see the rural side of Goa.
Divaar is between two bigger islands
– Chorao and Tiswaddi. There are 4 smaller islands as well – Vanxim, Tolto,
Accado, and Jua or St. Estevam. Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, where you can see
many species of birds and other animals, is at the edge of Divar. The island’s
mangrove swamp is in fact, an extension of the sanctuary.
Geographically
Divar is 3 kilometers in width and 5.80 kilometers in length. The island gets
its name from the word ‘Dipavati’, which in Konkani language means ‘small
island’. Others believe the island’s name comes from Konkani words ‘dev’ and
‘vaddi’, which means ‘place of the Gods’.
History has it that the locals
were mostly Konkani Hindus. It was once a popular Hindu pilgrimage site as many
devotees visited the Shree Mahamaya, Ganesh, Dwarkeshwar, and Saptkoteshwar
temples on the island. However, the Portuguese destroyed many temples during
the religious persecution of 1540. The Hindus fled along with their idols. In
its peak during the 12th century, Naroa used to be a small
town. It is no more than a village now. Piedade is the biggest settlement. Funnily
Konkan Railway passes through the island, but there is no station. Only source
of mobility is through the Ferry Service to go across to the city. There is a
shuttle bus from the wharf which covers the entire island winding across its
narrow motor able roads which bisects the settlements.
On the island you can check out many
ancient and historic spots . Some of them are protected by Archeological Survey
of India. Do check out Kadamba Dynasty Ruins
which hosts the tombs of Kadamba dynasty rulers beside the Piety church of
Piedade. The cemetery has a small chapel, where there was an ancient Ganesha
temple once. The deity was relocated after the Portuguese destroyed this
temple.
Saptkoteshwar Temple on
Naroa is a Hindu temple dedicated to
Lord Saptkoteshwar, the family God of the Kadamba dynasty rulers. Constructed
in the 12th century beside a beautiful water tank. The embankment rock wall has
a 100 craved mini windows similar to the zharokas in Rajput palaces in Mewar
Rajasthan. Each carved window had small Shiv Linga’s placed in it but today
they are no longer there. You can only see the impression left on the window
bases. But if you look closely some of the carved windows in the water tank you
can see the black stone Shiv Linga’s even today. This place was once a very popular religious
site, but destroyed by the Muslims in the 14th century. It was reconstructed
later. But the deity was moved during Portuguese inquisition.
Another temple which has
been reconstructed is the Hatkeshwar Temple . The sanctum sanctorum made of
carved black stone. The main hall has a small Nandi looking at the Shiv Linga .
Behind him is a colourful Ganesh idol set in the boundary wall of the temple.
The day we visited the temple it was open to public and was decorated with
fresh jai flowers . The pinkish white flowers releasing sweet fragrance within
the small temple. We had the visited this temple after 5 months of Lockdown and
the experience was really spiritual and serene.
In Mallar village you will find the Saint Mathias Church named after Mathias, the apostle
of Jesus. Dom Mathias de Albuquerque erected this small church between 1591 and
1597 when he was the Governor of Goa. There are 8 altars. Enjoy its beautiful
blue and white façade, and the architecture. There is a small ground beside the
church where you can relax. The church itself looks as if picked from Portugal
and deployed here.
Another pretty church is located on Piedade is Our Lady of Piety Church .Also known as Our Lady of Compassion. Built in the 1700s at the site of an ancient Hindu temple destroyed by Muslim rulers during the 15th century. This is the first Christian church in Divar. Beautiful white façade. The original church bell, made of glass, used to break glasses when it rang, so it was replaced. You will get a panoramic view of the island from here.
The Sao Matia village
which is now called Malar. It is a beautiful settlement stuck in long lost time.
A road passes through the middle with tall trees and plenty of greenery
everywhere. The Portuguese began their mass conversions here. It has the 400
years old Sao Mathias Church.
On Divar
Island , you’ll also notice a rainbow of houses. You can drive around the
brightly painted houses in reminiscence of the Portuguese times. With their
wooden pillars carved balconies tiled roofs . some of the houses even have
window doors made entirely of cut shells instead of glass. With a modest
population of only 6000 residents, its quaint charm will draw you right in and
making it a perfect choice for cycling in Goa.
Two of the popular festivals
you can enjoy on this island are Bonderam a Carnival on the 4th Saturday
of August. The villagers bring out floats. There is a colorful parade. Potekar festival
which is almost like Halloween. It is held 3 days before Lent. The locals go
from house to house wearing bells and handmade masks.
Divar Island is so blissfully green and tranquil
that you’re enticed to slip into a peaceful meditation. All these make for an
ideal Goan village tour. Come, take back a slice of life of Goa with
you.
Welcome to Goa ….. Welcome to Divaar Island a experience of a life
time…
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